Kingdom of Cambodia
Introduction
Cambodia is a country that for long has been shrouded in secrecy due to the on-going war and civil conflict that lasted for more than 2 decades. Now the country has risen as a Phoenix out of its ashes and is one of the most sought after tourist destinations. The country is perfectly safe to travel and many destinations need you to be discovered.
The Cambodians are a strong and resilient people. Since the end of the war and the growth of the new generations, the country is on the way to development. Improved roads, better security, electricity and clean water, all those things that are necessary to receive foreign visitors are available now. It makes it possible for tourists to enjoy the things that Cambodia has to offer. But it is not only the material things that make tourists feel welcome. It is the genuine friendliness and honesty of the Cambodian people that make foreigners feel at home, and what makes a visit to Cambodia an unforgettable and unique experience.
Of course, in terms of destination, Angkor Wat is the highlight of any trip to Cambodia.
Angkor Wat, the apex of the ancient, mighty Khmer empire.
Walking between the towering Khmer temples, created over a period starting over 1,500 years ago, and surrounded by beautiful forest, entering the dark, sacred chambers once the sanctuary of powerful Kings, overlooking the surroundings high up from the sculptured towers, one still feels the mystical meaning of what has been achieved here. One can feel it like a spiritual atmosphere hanging over the area. It is touching, powerful and impressive. It is an experience you will not forget.
Of course Cambodia has many more things to offer. Be it the beaches, the forests, the hill tribes, or the bustling city of Phnom Penh. In the following chapters you will find information and tour packages which will guide to enjoy this magnificent jewel of the Mekong.
Places to visit in Phnom Penh.
The capital of Cambodia dates back to the year 1327. According to the legends a rich widow named Don Penh found a tree with 5 Buddha statues in it. The tree was washed to the shore of the Mekong River after a devastating flood. In honour of Buddha she founded a pagoda which was later named after her: Wat Phnom Don Penh, on top of a large mound in the center of the city. Even nowadays Cambodian flock to the temple daily to make merit and to ask for good luck. In 1866 Phnom Penh became the capital of Cambodia. The city is located right at the “crossing of the rivers” where the Mekong River and the Tonle Sap river meet each other and then separate again to go each their own way.
A mixture of Asian exotica, Indochinese charm and Cambodian hospitality await the visitor to Phnom Penh. The city was formerly called “The Pearl of Asia” and although the many years of war have destroyed some of it, one still gets a taste of the old ambiance. Phnom Penh is really a unique city and we warmly recommend visitors to Cambodia to make a stop over here for 2 or 3 days. The city is small and there are no traffic jams. It can easily be traveled unlike to other capitals in Asia.
As Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia, it is also the political and economic center and the gateway to all the other sights that the country has to offer. Phnom Penh has several cultural and historical attractions such as The Royal Palace with the Silver Pagoda, Wat Unnalaom, Wat Langka, Wat Botum, the National Museum, Wat Phnom, the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, the nearby Killing Fields, and the grand views of the Mekong River. There are lots of places to sit and relax, or to have a good dinner in any of the cozy restaurants and bars while watching life pass by.
A visit to Phnom Penh markets is also definitely a must because of the special bustling atmosphere. There are several fresh markets of which the best known are Phsar Tuol Tompoung (Russian Market) and the Phsar Thmei (New Market). Here they sell not only fresh food, but anything from CD’s, clothes, tools and equipment, spare parts, shoes, ceramics and last but not least a fantastic array of souvenirs. Very popular among foreign visitors are the “production left-overs” of all the top-brand garment factories.
The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda
The palace in its present form was built in 1866 by King Norodom to replace the ancient palace that was made of wood. The location is great: near the river bank with wide views over the Mekong. In the palace, there are numerous buildings including the Throne Hall, the Royal Offices, the Silver Pagoda, beautifully sculpted Chedis holding the remains of previous kings and queens, and other historical buildings.
The oldest part of the palace are the fresco-covered walls of the palace compound, which is open to the public, but is unfortunately in a poor state of maintenance. It depicts episodes from the Khmer version of the Ramayana, the Reamker.
Located within the palace compound is Wat Preah Keo Morakot (Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha). It is more commonly known as the Silver Pagoda because the entire floor is made up of 5000 large silver tiles, each weighing 1.1 kg. The temple’s floor is a priceless work of religious art. The Silver Pagoda was constructed in the 19th century.
In the pagoda one can further admire many Buddha images, made of pure gold and encrusted with thousands of diamonds. Two dozen cabinets along the walls are filed with gifts to King Norodom and to successive Kings from other royalty and dignitaries,all priceless historical objects.
Some part of the compound is not open to the general public because the King and Queen actually are living in the palace.
There is a small admission fee to visit the Royal Palace as well a fee for photo and video equipment.
The National Museum
The National Museum is located right adjacent to the Royal Palace. It is a beautiful building stylish with distinctive rust-red walls and roofs. The style of the building is an example of Khmer architecture at its finest. Great for a photo opportunity.
The National Museum houses many of the Kingdom’s most important and awe-inspiring works of art from the pre-Angkor and Angkor era. Housing over 5000 works of art, the collection is divided into archeological and ethnographic masterpieces, ranging from the 6th to the 13th century, stone sculptures, ceramics, bronzes, Royal barges and palanquins as well as dance costumes from the 19th century. Many of the Angkor era statues, most notably the statue of the “leper king” have been brought to the Museum to protect them from looting.
Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek.
The Museum of Genocide is located in the former Tuol Svay Prey High school. When the Khmer Rouge took the capital in 1975, the school buildings were turned into a prison and interrogation center (code named S-21). Here thousands of people were systematically tortured and killed. The goal of this all was to extract so called “confessions” from the prisoners to admit that they were “traitors and CIA collaborators”. More than 20,000 people entered Tuol Sleng and only a handful of people survived. Many died during the torture and those who lived through this hell were taken to the Choeung Ek execution center (the “Killing Fields”), just outside the city, where they were murdered and thrown into mass graves. At the execution area, now idyllically located between rice paddies and fruit orchards, a memorial glass tower has been erected, containing the skulls of some of the tens of thousands victims.
Much of Tuol Sleng has been kept in the state as it was found after the Khmer Rouge were chased out of the city. Both the Genocide Museum and killing Fields are a must for visitors who are interested in Cambodian history and who want to understand the suffering the Cambodian people have gone through. But it is not for the faint-hearted. The prison kept extensive records and the photos and “confessions” of the tortured souls are on display. A gruesome warning to let history not repeat itself.
Wat Phnom
On a hill in the Northern part of Phnom Penh lies Wat Phnom, the Pagoda was built in 1372 and is regarded as the place where the city Phnom Penh was founded.
The large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467) who moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh in 1422.
Wat Phnom is a very popular place among the city people as it is located among trees in a small park. Many people come to the Pagoda for prayer and small offerings, or just to sit and relax to get a few moments of peace, away from the hectic daily life. Why not enjoy with the Khmer and take an elephant ride around Wat Phnom?
Pagodas
The CANBY visitors guide writes: “In Phnom Penh you are never outside walking distance of a pagoda (Wat). Visitors are almost always welcome.
Wat Botum. Significant because it is one of the city’s original pagodas, it was founded by King Ponyea Yat. It took its current name in 1865 and its current structure in 1937. Of photographic note: the pagoda compound is crowded with ornate stupas.
Wat Lanka is one of Phnom Penh’s five original Wats (1422). First established as a sanctuary for the Holy Writings and a meeting place for Cambodian and Sri Lankan monks, the Wat was named in honour of these meetings.
Wat Ounalaom is another of Phnom Penh’s 5 original monastries. Until 1999 it housed the Institute Bouddique and library. Located at the river front and near the National Museum.”
Sub-title 2: Other sights around Phnom Penh.
We recommend everyone to stay a day or 3 in Phnom Penh, in stead of rushing to Angkor Wat or just transitting on the way back home. Although the capital is not large there are lots of things to see and enjoy, especially when looking at the wider surroundings suitable for a day trip.
Here is a short summary of activities that you can do in Phnom Penh:
Visit the craft center of the Artisans Association of Cambodia
Take a relaxed cycle ride through part of the city by our certified cyclos
Enjoy a meal in the restaurant of Friends International: an organisation giving street children the opportunity to build a new future.
Visit an evening performance of Sovannaphum see the traditional shadow puppet theatre and classical Apsara dancing.
A visit a workshop where you can observe the commercial production of 100% hand made knives and swords (export quality!), including the traditional production of steel our of iron ore.
Visit Phnom Chisor.
A very enjoyable day trip that can be taken from Phnom Penh is a visit to Phnom Chisor, located about 50 km out of Phnom Penh in the Province of Takeo. On top of this hill there is a small but interesting temple built from laterite and brick and decorated with sandstone lintels. Inscriptions here date from the 11th century, when this site was known as Suryagiri. A special characteristic of Phnom Chisor is its wooden, rather than stone, doors that open into the sanctuary in the center of the temple. The doors show off intricate carvings of figures standing on pigs. The 503 steps to the temple on top of the hill make for a fairly vigorous climb. From the top of Phnom Chisor one has a spectacular view of the surrounding plains and the temples of Sen Thmol and Sen Ravang which are located not far from Phnom Chisor. A visit to Phnom Chisor can be easily combined with a visit to the Angkor-era temple of Tonle Bati.
Visit Tonle Bati.
Also located in Takeo is the beautiful temple of Tonle Bati. On the road to Tonle Bati there are 2 Angkor era temples: Ta Prohm and Yeay Peau. Both temples were built in the late 12th century under King Jayavarman VII. Ta Prohm is definitely the most beautiful (well preserved) of the 2 temples. This site gives a good introduction to the visit to the famous Angkor Wat later during your journey.
Visit Oudong.
About an hour North-west of Phnom Penh just off Route #5 lay the hills of the abandoned royal city of Oudong. Oudong was the capital of Cambodia from the early 17th century until 1866, and saw the crowning of several monarchs, including King Ang Duong and his son King Norodom, great-great grandfather of the current King. In 1866 King Norodom was persuaded by the French to relocate the capital from here to the more strategically located Phnom Penh. The court, totaling more than 10,000 moved en masse.
While little remains of the canals, terraces, bridges and approximately 100 pagodas, the hill top site of Oudong is still a site for a very pleasant half-day trip that takes you into the scenic countryside outside Phnom Penh.
Visit Mekong Islands.
For visitors with an interest in silk weaving or rural Cambodia, there is a very interesting boat trip of about half a day to one of the nearby islands in the Mekong river. One of the popular destination is the “Mekong Island” where there are exhibitions and demonstrations of traditional silk and cotton weaving. Also other traditional crafts are demonstrated. On another nearby island one can visit a traditional village in a truly rural settling where there is a loom in every house because weaving is one of the main sources of income for local villagers. Khmer silk weaving is recognized as one of the best in the world with very intricate patterns and a high level of craftsmanship. There are several restaurants at the island so there is ample opportunity to do this trip in a leisurely fashion.
Visit Kirirom National Park.
The Kirirom National Park, whose official name is Preah Suramarith Kossmak, is about 80,000 acres of forested land on a rare plateau in southwestern Cambodia. The elevation is about 2,200 feet, high enough to support a large pine forest quite distinct from most of the country's tropical jungle. This park is part of the 'Southwest Cluster Protected Areas' which include Phnom Bokor, Preah Sihanouk and Kep National Parks. Attractions at this hill station of Kirirom are its spectacular scenery and its astonishing waterfalls. This park is also the home to many endangered species of animals such as pleated gibbon, sun bear and tiger . You can take a ride in the traditional ox-cart ride or trek along the walking trails among the pine trees.
Places to visit in Siem Reap.
The Temples of Angkor in Siem Reap.
The majestic temples of Angkor in the Northwest of Cambodia belong to the classic period of Khmer art and civilisation. Today, a millennium after they were built, they awe visitors with their perfection and enormity.
The temples are the creation of a succession of Khmer Kings who presided over an empire that dominated most of present-day Southeast Asia from 800 to 1430 AD, reaching its peak in the 12th century. The period began with the ascension to the throne by King Jayavarman II.
Angkor was the basis for the Khmer empire and continued to grow and evolve into a vast city of over a million inhabitants and hundreds of temples dedicated to the Khmer gods.
In the 14th century the empire was in decline and the grand wooden houses and palaces have disappeared. From the 15th century the temples were abandoned by the Kings and subsequently forgotten until their “rediscovery” in 1961 by a French explorer.
The jungle setting and silence enhance the mystery of the temples. One early discoverer’s reaction upon seeing Angkor is not so much different as the feeling of the visitor of today: “The temple stands solitary and alone in the jungle, in too perfect order to be called a ruin, a relic of a race far ahead of the present”.
Angkor Wat.
Angkor Wat is the largest temple in the world, with a volume of stone equaling that of the Cheops pyramid in Egypt. It is unlike all the other Khmer temples in that it faces West, and it is inspired by 12th century Hinduism. Angkor Wat was conceived by Suryavarman II, and took several decades to build. It is generally believed to have been a funeral temple for the king.
The main structure, surrounded with a thick retaining wall and an imposing moat, contains three stories of libraries, galleries, towers and a grand statue of the Hindu god Vishnu. Intricate bas reliefs surround Angkor Wat on four sides. Each tells a story, mostly of the king’s great battle victories. The most celebrated of the carvings is the Churning of the Sea of Milk, which is located on the east wing. In it, the Naga mythical serpent is twisted by demons and gods to spurt out the elixir of life. The way the light glows in the ancient stones makes sunrise and sunset the best time to wander through Angkor Wat’s 2 square km, climb its towers and ponder its creators.......
Angkor Thom.
The acient walled city of Angkor Thom (“Great City”) is located a short distance from Angkor Wat. It contains the famous Bayon temple with its more than 200 enormous, mysterious smiling faces. It also contains the 300m. long Elephant Terrace with its large sculptured royal elephants and Garudas. Also within the walled area is the terrace of the Leper King. A sandstone replica of the Leper King is here. (The original is in the National Museum in Phnom Penh). In its glory days, the temple housed a grand palace and a population of villagers within nine square kilometers. Outside the walls and moat rice was grown for sustenance and reservoir was created to collect water. Strolling through the massive Bayon one can feel the history that has passed by these ancient stones.
Ta Prohm.
It was in the year 1186 that the city of Angkor saw the completion of one of its greatest temples, Ta Prohm. Built by King Jayavarman VII to honour his mother, Ta Prohm encompasses one hectare of land, while its protective moat and outer wall cover an area of almost 60 hectares, its boundaries now only recognizable by a stone tower in the west. Ta Prohm was originally constructed as a Buddhist monastery and was enormously wealthy in its time, boasting control over 3000 villages, thousands of support staff and vast stores of jewels and gold.
Ta Prohm is the temple that has been left largely in its natural state since its discovery. Surrounded by jungle, its labyrinth of stone hallways is overgrown with the roots and limbs of the massive Banyan trees which envelope the stones like tentacles. Ta Prohm is well worth an extended expoloration of its dark corridors and open plazas. It is a “must see” in every tour programme.
Bantey Srei .
This is the fabled pink temple of the women, so called because it is made of pink sandstone and considered a tribute to the beauty of women. Its small size, delicate carvings and remarkable state of preservation make Bantey Srei one of everyone’s favorite temples. It is the most elaborately decorated of all Angkor’s monuments. Bantey Srei is located about 32 km from Angkor and it is one of the oldest temples in the region.
Roluos Group.
The three monuments in the Roluos Group, located 12 km. southeast of Siem Reap, offer a look at the earliest definition of Khmer civilisation. These temples, Bakong, Lolei and Preah Ko, were built in the 9th century under Indravarman I. Bakong is also the site of a modern Buddhist monastery.
Beung Mealea.
The CANBY Visitors Guide writes: “Sprawling jungle temple covering over one square kilometer. The temple is largely overrun by vegetation and very lightly touristed, giving it an adventurous “lost temple” feel. Trees growing from the broken towers and galleries offer some of the best photo opportunities. Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style, Beung Mealea preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts for Angkor Wat. In its time Beung Mealea was at the crossroads of several major highways that ran to Angkor, to the temples in neighbouring provinces and was linked to what is now Thailand and Vietnam.
The temple is located about 60 km outside of Siem Reap and can be visited on a half-day trip.
Visit Phnom Koulen and Kbal Spean.
In a magical area of jungle, up in the western section of the Koulen Mountains, the site of Kbal Spean is another place for a great day trip out of Siem Reap. At this site one can observe the beautiful rock carvings under the surface of the flowing water of Siem Reap river in the setting of dense jungle.
This site is regarded by the Khmers as one of the holiest sites because it is located at the origin of the Siem Reap river which was (and still is) the life giving source of the water that enables the widespread rice cultivation in the area of Angkor. As such it was the basis of the food production of the civilisation, which in its turn provided the wealth and supported the resources required to build the temples.
A trip to Kbal Spean can best be combined with a visit to Bantey Srey temple as these two places are located along the same route.
Visit the Tonle Sap and the floating villages.
Besides the temples, the Tonle Sap (the Great Lake) is another place which is really worthwhile a visit. It is the massive fresh water lake which fills up with water from the Mekong during the rainy season and gradually empties out again during the dry season. In the rainy season the lake is huge and the water comes up to the village and mount of Phnom Krom. In the dry season the water has retreated a lot and boats are much further away. The Tonle Sap used to be the main route for people to travel by boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. However, nowadays, in the dry season there is often not sufficient water in the lake for the boats to run the whole distance because at some places the water will be less than 50 cm deep.
The two most interesting sites on the Tonle Sap are the floating village, inhabited by ethnic Vietnamese fishing folks. In this village literally everything floats: the houses, the schools, the clinic, the pig sties, the vegetable patches… A really interesting community to observe.
The other important site is the Prek Toal Nature Reserve. Tonle Sap was designated a UNESCO Biosphere reserve and Prek Toal is a sanctuary for a wide range of water birds, including thee endangered species – spot-billed pelicans, greater adjutant stork and the white winged duck. The reserve can best be reached by boat under guidance of a person who knows the site. We arrange day trips that combine Prek Toal with a visit to the Floating Village. The best time of the year to visit the area is the dry season when many birds flock to this area.
Other really interesting sites to visit are Kompong Plouk and Kompong Khleang. Here one can see the really traditional village life at the edge of the Tonle Sap. It comprises clusters of stilted houses in several villages, built to cope with the high water during the rainy season. In the rainy season one can take a boat ride through the mangrove forests and observe the various flora and fauna. In the dry season the houses have risen up to 10 meters out of the water and are an absolute awesome sight. During the dry season it is possible to reach these villages by car.
Visit the silk weaving center.
A very interesting half day trip is a visit to the Silk Weaving Center of Artisans d’Angkor. This place is located in the district of Pouk, a short drive outside of Siem Reap. Here you can observe and learn about the complete process of silk production, processing and weaving. Cambodia has developed silk weaving to a high artistic level and the products are regarded as the best in the world.
Visit Battambang and surroundings.
Sitting on the Sangker River, just South-west of the Tonle Sap Lake, Battambang town is at the heart of Cambodia’s “rice bowl”, and even though it is the countries second biggest town, it still has a very local, untouristed, provincial atmosphere. Much of the architecture is French colonial and traditional Cambodian. Few buildings are over three stories, and the streets are shared by cars and horse carts alike. Unlike more touristed towns, the local economy is truly local –based firmly in rice, wood, sapphires and food crops – and is reflected in the character of the town. Similarly, as you leave Battambang by road, the scene quickly becomes one of small villages, rice paddies, and farmland, offering an excellent opportunity for the visitors to see a bit of the “unspoiled” rural Cambodia. (Source: CANBY, Siem Reap visitors guide).
We recommend a visit to Battambang. You surely will not be disappointed. It is a place with great atmosphere and some nice historical sites. It fits excellently in a round-trip through Cambodia (see our example tour programmes in the next section).
Day trip from Battambang: visit three historical mountains.
The rural countryside out of Battambang is truly picturesque. As soon as we leave the city we are in the middle of the rural scenery with small villages, with the traditional stilted houses, sugar palm trees and rice paddies as far as the eye can see. Each of three sites in the vicinity of Battambang can easily be visited on a half day trip or combine in a full day trip.
Ek Phnom Temple. This is an 11th century Angorian temple built during the reign of Suryavarman I. It is located about 12 km. north of Battambang along the Sangker river. The temple reflects the Hindu religion which had a strong influence during these days. Next to the ancient temple there is a modern pagoda where village people come to pray.
Phnom Banan. About 25 km. out of Battambang one finds the hills top temple of Wat Banan. Similarly to Ek Phnom temple it was built in the 11th century. The temples can be reached via a steep laterite stairway which ascends an eight-meter-high hill.
The sculptures are still reasonable well preserved and the 5 towers remind of Angkor Wat. On top of the mountain one has great views of the countryside and can enjoy the serenity of the environment.
Phnom Sampeou. This mountain is steeped in legends and is known for its caves and remainders of Khmer Rouge “killing fields”. To reach the caves and the top of the hill one must ascend via steep steps. There are various caves and some of them traverse the mountain to the other side where one has really great views of the country side. In some of the caves there are piles of bones, collected by the monks, of victims of Khmer Rouge torture, who tried to escape and fell to their death in the caves.
Vist Wat Kor cultural and agricultural village.
Located along the Sangker river, 2 km South of Battambang town, lies the cultural and agricultural villages of Wat Kor Commune where visitors can enjoy an insight into the Cambodian way of life. Wat Kor cultural village is known for its ancient wooden houses, some of which were constructed almost a 100 years ago. Explore the simplicity of Khmer housing of the past and present and step inside to discover the Cambodian way of living. The owners and families will happily take you around, explaining the history of their homes and sharing their life stories.
Traveling from village to village by ox cart can be done in Kompong Seyma village. You can also visit the agricultural villages to learn about traditional agricultural practices including rice planting and fruit growing. And of course you can taste the variety of usual fruits available.
Day trip from Battambang: visit Pailin.
Although Pailin does not have many specific sights to offer, visitors like to come here because it is known as the last strong hold of the Khmer Rouge and the old centre for gem mining. Nowadays the town is a typical border town, with buildings thrown up haphazardly and little town planning as such. The town is still run by ex Khmer Rouge leaders who have defected to the government.
It is possible to visit some of the gem mining operations although most of the gems have already been exploited. Presently there are still finds of garnets and topazes and the occasional rubies. But sapphires rarely are found. Gone are the days that one could find gems by keeping ones eyes peeled and watching the ground.
Another reason why one would pass through Pailin is that it is near the international border crossing with Thailand some 20 km away (see map).
So it is possible to travel from Bangkok to Pailin and onward to Battambang and eventually to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Definitely an interesting trip.
Visit Kompong Thom.
Kompong Thom is mostly visited “en-route” traveling by car from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. The most important site to visit are the temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. This is a collection of 7th century temple ruins and are considered among the oldest in Cambodia, thereby giving them significant archeological importance. Consisting of dozens of of impressive brick temples in semi-cleared jungle, many ruins displaying excellent examples of early Khmer art, this pre-Angkorian complex is an important destination for the serious temple visitor. The location of the temples is the place of the old city of Isanapura, the capital of the pre-Angkorian Khmer kingdom known as Chenla.
Visit the amazing Angkor Bridge.
Also “en-route” from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, a ‘must visit’ site is the Angkor era bridge of Kompong Kdei. This huge and amazing structure was part of the main highway carrying truck load of more than 40 tons. Currently the bridge is a protected site and the highway has been diverted. Another great place for a stop over.
Visit in Sihanouk Ville.
Sea, Sand and …..Mangroves.
After having traveled to other destinations in Cambodia it is great to spend a couple of days relaxing at the beach in Sihanoukville. This coastal town is a mere 4 hours drive from the capital Phnom Penh. There are several beaches in Sihanoukville, separated by rocky outcrops and each which its own characteristics. All beaches have beautiful white sand and are generally pretty basic without any noisy bars or shops. The sea (Gulf of Thailand) also is clean, safe and very beautiful. Sihanoukville is ideally suited for those who like to have peace and quiet in a basic and traditional setting. The pace of life in Sihanoukville is very relaxed. Cows occasionally wander the main road, outside town foreign faces draw smiles and curious stares, and most of the beaches offer only beach umbrellas, thatched roofed eateries
Sihanoukville town, originally established as a town for the deep-sea port, is a few kilometers away from the beach. But there are several hotels located right at the beach. The most well known is the luxury Sokha Beach Resort with its own private beach. The other up-scale hotel is the historic Independence Hotel. Furthermore there are a lot of hotels in the 2* and 3* range.
Note: if you want to visit Sihanoukville it is best to check the calendar first. Because during Cambodian holidays, the local population flocks to the beaches and it might be very difficult to find hotel accommodation.
When in Sihanouk Ville, don’t forget to have a meal at the Starfish Bakery Café, set up for and run by disabled people who are building up a new future.
Visit Ream National Park.
It is great to combine a stay at the beach with day trips to nearby places. A very nice trip that we can recommend is a visit to the National Park of Ream. This park covers an area of 210 square km. of both terrestrial and marine habitat, including stunning coastal scenery, mangrove forests and lowland evergreen forest. This place is a must for people who have never seen real coastal mangrove forest. At least 155 species of birds have been noted in the park and other animals in the area include species of deer, wild pig, fishing cats and monkeys. A typical trip starts with a boat ride through the estuary. Once reaching the outer end you will disembark on the white beach and take a hike past some villages and make a short jungle trek to end up at another deserted beach where the boat is ready to pick you up again. It is a great experience.
Visit the islands.
From Sihanoukville it is also great to make day trips to a variety of outlying islands (Koh Pos, Koh Tas, Koh Rom Samiem, Koh Khteah, Koh Chraigh, and more) where one can imagine being Robinson Crusoe, because many of the islands are absolutely deserted, with stunning white beaches and crystal clear sea water. The boat ride takes anywhere from half an hour to three hours. We can arrange snorkeling gear or diving equipment for you so that you can combine the trip with some under water adventure.
Note: There are plans to develop several of the islands of the coast of Sihanoukville with high 5* resorts, but at the moment they are still in their original, natural, state like they have been for hundreds of years.
After Sihanouk Ville: Koh S’Dach and Koh Kong.
Sihanouk Ville is a great place to spend some time at the end of a journey or before moving on to a next destination. It is very easy to travel to and from the Thai border out of Sihanouk Ville. And on the way there are more interesting sites to visit. There is a daily express boat which runs between Sihanouk Ville and the border town of Koh Kong. On the way this boat makes a stop over at a small island named Koh S’Dach. (King’s island). There are some guesthouses on the island and it is interesting to spend a day or two. Just like most places in Cambodia this tiny little island has not yet been touched by the big money. It is still in it’s original state, a dwelling for the local fishing community.
Continuing by boat you reach Koh Kong, the border town that connects to Thailand. This little town has been isolated for a long time because there was no proper road to Phnom Penh. Now the road is its final stages of completion and travel has become safe and easy. Besides reaching Koh Kong by boat from Sihanoukville it can also be reached by car, both from Phnom Penh and from Sihanouk Ville (see map). Koh Kong also has some nice places to visit, such as the coastal mangrove forests, the waterfalls and jungles of the Cardamom mountains and the local Muslim fishing villages. We can arrange a nice day trip for you.
Visit the North East: Mondolkiri, Rattanakiri and Steung Treng.
Visit Rattanakiri.
Home to a vast jungle, rare animals, and highland tribes, Rattanakiri and Mondolkiri provinces are shrouded in mystery. The two provinces are squeezed between the Mekong River on the West and Vietnam on the East (see map). Rattanakiri is about 630 km from Phnom Penh with Banlung as its capital. The area is hilly with jungles interspersed with grassy plateaus. Up to recently there are very few people visiting this region because it is really off the beaten track and road to these areas were really bad. Besides that, if the main destination for coming to Cambodia is to visit Angkor Wat, a trip to Rattanakiri and Mondolkiri literally is a side trip.
Nowadays, both places are becoming more and more part of the regular travel itinerary because the border crossing at the nearby border with Laos is open for international visitors, and the roads have been improved a lot. One of the popular itineraries is to visit Rattanakiri and Mondolkiri when traveling from Southern Laos to Cambodia or vice versa (see maps; see itineraries in the first section of this brochure).
The area is inhabited by ethnic minorities which have been living in the forests since centuries in an area that straddles the Cambodian and Vietnamese highlands.
Their culture and language, their dress and their beliefs, are really worthwhile experiencing.
Highlights in Rattanakiri.
Yeak Laom lake and sourrounding areas.
The provincial town Banlung is basically the centre of the province and the place from which the area can be explored. The itineraries that we offer are half day trips and day trips and combine a choice of means of transportation: travel by vehicle, trekking on foot, mountain bike, or trekking on elephant back.
One of the highlights of the province is the Yeak Laom magical lake, which actually is a the crater of a large extinct volcano which has filled up with water. Bamboo thickets and jungle fringe the lake’s edge. The water is cool and invites for a swim. It is a unique experience because there are not many places on earth where one can swim in a volcano crater. The depth of the crater gives the water a dark turquoise appearance. No one has ever reached the bottom of the lake. Near the lake there is also a small exhibition which shows the culture of the Tampoun ethnic group.
North of Banlung one can visit another very interesting highlight: Veal Rum Plan, an ancient lave field of hugh flat stones in jungle area and there are many beautiful waterfalls in the area that can be reached by vehicle or on elephant back.
Virachey National Park
The second main destination in Rattanakiri is the Virachey National Park.
This park covers the area of Steung Treng and Rattanakiri and extends into Southern Laos. Virachey National Park is one of the top priority areas for conservation in Southeast Asia because it connects to the national parks in Southern Laos and North-western Vietnam, this being part of a very unique biosphere. The park covers an area of 3,325 km².
We offer trekking opportunities for those with a sense of adventure and a desire to learn about the natural and cultural heritage of this beautiful park, the largest and one of the most remote national parks in the country. Combining forest trekking, river journeys and village home-stays with the park's indigenous communities, our tours offer a unique opportunity for visitors to see first hand why Virachey National Park is one of the top priority areas for conservation in Southeast Asia.
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Visit Mondolkiri.
Mountainous and sparsely populated, Mondolkiri is the least visited province of Cambodia. There is only a rudimentary road system and most of the area is covered by jungle. The people living here are generally from the ethnic group the Pnong. They live by a slash and burn system combined with hunting and gathering like they have done for hundreds of years. Gradually the province is opened up by companies and rich investors who buy up large areas to establish plantations. It is expected that the forests will eventually disappear. Foreign mining operations have also come to the area which will put even more pressure on the natural resources.
The most interesting sites in the province are the waterfalls such as the Bou Sraa, the Senmonorom waterfall and the Romnea waterfall. The rest of the province is still too unexplored to point out specific tourist sites.
Travel tips.
Traveling to Cambodia.
By air.
There are direct connections by air to Cambodia from all major Asian cities, Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Vientiane, Shanghai, etc, both to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. For travelers from the USA and Europe it is often possible to purchase the sector to Cambodia directly together with the long haul ticket to Asia at a reduced cost (check with your travel agent!).
Bangkok Airways also offers a special travel deal: The Discovery Airpass. This is ideal for if you want to visit several places in the Mekong region during your trip. It applies to most of the destinations where Bangkok Airways is flying. You can save a lot of money by making use of this offer. There are however limited seats on each flight so it is important to book in advance as much as possible. As the tickets are E-tickets, you can book via our office (see our contact details on the first page of this brochure) and we send you the ticket by e-mail.
Over Land.
To travel over land to Cambodia is possible from all three neighbouring countries through a multitude of international border crossings which are open to foreign nationals.
From Thailand to Cambodia:
Cham Yeam town (Koh Kong Province, Cambodia) and Hat Lek town (Trat, Thailand):
Poi Pet town (Cambodia) and Aranyaprathet town (Thailand):
Sla Krav town (near Pailin town, Cambodia) and Ban Pakart (Thailand):
O’Smach town (Odor Meanchey province, Cambodia) and Chong Choam (Surin Provice, Thailand)
At all these border crossings it is possible to apply for a “visa on arrival”, so there is no need to have a Cambodian visa in your passport in advance.
From Vietnam to Cambodia:
Banteay Chak Krei town or Kaam Samnor town (Prey Veng province, Cambodia) and Vinh Xuong (Chau Doc, Vietnam):
Bavet town (Svay Rieng province, Cambodia) and Moc Bai town (Vietnam):
Phnom Den Border (Takeo, Cambodia) and Trin Bieng (Vietnam)
At all the first 2 border crossings it is possible to apply for a “visa on arrival”, so there is no need to have a Cambodian visa in your passport in advance.
But for the third border crossing it is necessary to have a visa in the passport.
From Laos to Cambodia:
Don Kralor town (Stung Treng Province, Cambodia) and Voen Kham town (Laos)
At this border crossings it is possible to apply for a “visa on arrival”, so there is no need to have a Cambodian visa in your passport in advance.
All these entry points are very popular because they have opened up new and exiting routes through beautiful country side and rustic villages, which is much more enchanting than spending time in dreary airports.
However, traveling along these routes is time consuming so the programme must allow sufficient time for this. The actual immigration process at all border points is simple and straight forward, but in the high season one has to be prepared to queue up for quite some time.
Visa arrangement.
At the Thai/Cambodian land border crossings mentioned above, as well as at the airports in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap a visa can be easily obtained for most nationalities. The cost of a tourist visa is USD 20.00. It allows for a 1 months stay. Besides this 1 passport size photograph is needed. Visa forms and entry forms can be obtained at the check points free of charge. Please note that there are visa restrictions for nationals from some countries in South Asia and the Middle East. For those nationalities a visa must be obtained from a Cambodian Embassy prior to arrival.
The Currency.
• In Cambodia the national currency is Riel. Riels are normally used at all markets, supermarkets and small retail shops. But parallel to the Riel the USD Dollar is used everywhere, and also the Thai Baht. Thus there is no need to exchange money before traveling to Cambodia. Payment can be made in USD and you will receive change in local currency.
• If you need to change money you can do so at private money exchange agents or at the banks. Banks are open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
• Traveller cheques of major currencies are ready accepted at the banks.
• Some banks offer ATM facilities
• At most banks in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Battambang one can draw cash with a VISA or MASTER CARD. However there is a maximum amount that can be drawn and there might be a bank charge.
• In many hotels and shops it is possible to pay by credit card, Visa, Master and AMEX but there is a bank charge of about 3-4% for every payment.
• Money transfer services of Western Union and Moneygram are available in many places.
The best time to visit.
Cambodia can be visited all-year round. There is no specific period that travel should be avoided.
The pro- and cons of the various times of the year can be summarized as follows:
November to February: during this time the weather tends to be somewhat cooler than in the other months (although this varies from year to year). It is generally dry. In November the colourful boat races are held in Phnom Penh. However it is the high season for tourism which means that there are lots of people at the Angkor temples. The hotels tend to be a little bit more expensive and must be booked well in advance. The absolute peak season is from the second half of December to the first half of January. During the dry season there is less greenery and there is more dust in the air, which is not good for photography. During February the water in the Tonle Sap lake might be too shallow to travel by boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.
March and April: this is the hottest part of the year. Visiting Angkor Wat and other places will definitely cost you some sweat. In April the Cambodian New Year is celebrated which is a really festive and interesting time. Due to the drought there are no green rice fields and there is a lot of dust in the air. Tourist numbers are still quite high during these months. During the Cambodian festivals and public holidays it is difficult to find hotel accommodation. There are no bots between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
May, June and July: the temperature has cooled off a little due to the arrival of the rains. Tourist numbers are down. Boats will start to run again over the Tonle Sap. Hotel rates are at the “low-season rate”. There are no major festivals.
August to October: This is the time of the main rainy season. Generally the rainy season means that there occasionally might be a big shower or two around noon or in the late afternoon. This will have no impact on your travels. However, it is also the typhoon season for the Philippines and Vietnam. In case there is a large typhoon coming in from the east, Cambodia will also be affected. It might be heavily clouded and rainy for a day or three until the typhoon has died out. Typhoons don’t reach Cambodia so there is no danger for storms. The rain is the only inconvenience. During these months the boats across the Tonle Sap are running normally. It is the best time for making photos due to there is no dust in the air and there beautiful cloud formation. The weather is quite cool. There very few tourists at the Angkor Temples and hotel accommodation can be easily booked. The rice fields are a vibrant green.
Festivals and Events
Throughout the year Cambodia enjoys a number of festivals and cultural events, often held in conjunction with public holidays.
The major events are the following:
• 1 January: International New Year
• 7 January: Commemoration of the liberation from the Pol Pot regime
• Late January or early February: Chinese New Year (the exact date various from year to year depending on the lunar calendar)
• April 13-17: Cambodian (Buddhist) New Year.
The New Year festival spans three days of celebrations. The Khmers clean and decorate their houses and make offerings at the little sprit houses. Also they visit the temples to pray with the monks. Throughout the country young people play the traditional games which are always a lot of fun. In Phnom Penh there are performances in the city center and fireworks. People also splash water and powder on each other and even on strangers along the road for wishing good luck (and for having a good laugh as well). It is one of the major celebrations in Cambodia.
• Around first week of May: The Royal Ploughing ceremony. (Depending on the lunar calendar)
The Royal Ploughing Ceremony. This is an ancient tradition which has been handed down from the times of Angkor Wat. At the holy grounds next to the Royal Palace, the representatives of the King together with Brahmin priests will perform a ritual plowing ceremony by which the Brahmin priests will make their predictions for the nest planting and harvesting season. The ceremony is very interesting as one can observe the traditional dresses and also of the sacred bulls that performs the ritual.
• May 1: International Labour Day
• May 13-15: Celebrations for King Seyhamoney
• June 1: International Children’s Day
• June 18: The Queen’s Birthday
• September 24: Constitution Day
• Around late September to mid October: Pchum Ben Festival, or: “merit making festival for the deceased ancestors”. Also this festival depends on the lunar calendar. It is the most important event for the Khmer people. Although this is generally a solemn occasion with prayer and reflection, the final day is one of celebration and festivity. Many people will travel to their home provinces and will make trips to the popular tourist places throughout the country. (If you want to come to Cambodia during these days, please make your bookings well in advance!)
• October 23: Signing of the Paris Peace agreement
• October 30-November 1: Former King Sihanouk Birthday
• November 9: Independence Day
• November 18-20: Water festival and the annual long-boat races. (Depending on the lunar calendar)
This is the traditional celebration of the start of the harvest season. The main event during these days is the 3-day long boat races where dozens of pirogues (long canoes with 50 helmsmen) from all over the country speed along the waters of the Mekong to compete for the grand prize, watched from early morning until the evening by huge crowds. In the evening beautifully decorated floats cross the river in front of the Royal Palace and fireworks draws thousands of spectators.
• November: Ramayana Festival at Angkor Wat
This is the annual festival where the ancient legend of the Ramayana is performed by troupes not only from Thailand but also from other South East Asian countries. The shows are held in the evening at the Angkor Wat temple. The music and lights against the backdrop of the majestic Angkor Wat, and the overall atmosphere, provide an unforgettable experience. (For those who want to enjoy this festival, reservations must be made well in advance).
• November: Siem Reap Half Marathon
• December 10: Human Rights Day
To visit Cambodia during these festivities is always thrilling and fascinating. Notably the Khmer Water Festival with the annual boat races is truly spectacular. So when you are planning your trip you should always keep an eye on the cultural agenda.
Another important reason to keep an eye on the Cambodian cultural calendar is that during these days also the Cambodians like to travel and enjoy themselves at the various tourist sites in the country. Therefore any reservations for hotels and flights must be made well in advance so that we can ensure you of the best services that you require.
Safety.
Many people still have the impression that Cambodia is a very un-safe country.
Nothing van be further from the truth.
Cambodia is a very safe country for foreign visitors. The reason for this being, that as a foreigner you are treated with the traditional friendliness, curiosity and hospitality that characterizes traditional Cambodian culture.
Theft and robbery.
Of course, just like anywhere else in the world you should look after your valuables well. Don’t leave any wallet or photocamera unattended.
However robbery very very seldom occurs.
Mines.
There are still mines in Cambodia but only in the very remote areas. In the areas where tourists visit, and where the Cambodian people are living, there is absolutely no danger. Cambodia is a popular country for motor-cross on dirt bikes because in many remote provinces the regular roads are still in an extreme state of disrepair. For this type of tourism there is of course a need for caution because the routes take you often to very remote areas and jungles. So this should only be undertaken under supervision of an experienced guide.
Health.
As in many of the Asian countries there is one main advise when it comes to health: don’t buy food from small stalls along the road, eat only in proper restaurants and order food that is well cooked. Restaurants that cater for the local population are just as safe as the restaurants that cater for the tourists, as long as the food is well cooked.
When buying drinks outside of the hotel: only buy drinks that are bottled or canned.
Avoid taking ice that is crushed from the large blocks. Only use ice that is produced in a modern ice factory (the nice round ones with a hole in the middle).
Cambodia hospitals and clinics have improved a lot over the recent years. Therefore better health services and medicines are available. However, for serious cases evacuation to Thailand is still recommended.
Traffic.
In terms of safety, traffic is the main concern.
Local taxis are extremely dangerous because they are often over-loaded and speeding with great danger. These must definitely be avoided. The local buses that ply the main routes are safer but also with these, accidents occur due to poor driving skills and speeding.
a tree with 5 Buddha statues in it. The tree was washed to the shore of the Mekong River after a devastating flood. In honour of Buddha she founded a pagoda which was later named after her: Wat Phnom Don Penh, on top of a large mound in the center of the city. Even nowadays Cambodian flock to the temple daily to make merit and to ask for good luck. In 1866 Phnom Penh became the capital of Cambodia. The city is located right at the “crossing of the rivers” where the Mekong River and the Tonle Sap river meet each other and then separate again to go each their own way. A mixture of Asian exotica, Indochinese charm and Cambodian hospitality await the visitor to Phnom Penh. The city was formerly called “The Pearl of Asia” and although the many years of war have destroyed some of it, one still gets a taste of the old ambiance. Phnom Penh is really a unique city and we warmly recommend visitors to Cambodia to make a stop over here for 2 or 3 days. The city is small and there are no traffic jams. It can easily be traveled unlike to other capitals in Asia. As Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia, it is also the political and economic center and the gateway to all the other sights that the country has to offer. Phnom Penh has several cultural and historical attractions such as The Royal Palace with the Silver Pagoda, Wat Unnalaom, Wat Langka, Wat Botum, the National Museum, Wat Phnom, the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, the nearby Killing Fields, and the grand views of the Mekong River. There are lots of places to sit and relax, or to have a good dinner in any of the cozy restaurants and bars while watching life pass by. A visit to Phnom Penh markets is also definitely a must because of the special bustling atmosphere. There are several fresh markets of which the best known are Phsar Tuol Tompoung (Russian Market) and the Phsar Thmei (New Market). Here they sell not only fresh food, but anything from CD’s, clothes, tools and equipment, spare parts, shoes, ceramics and last but not least a fantastic array of souvenirs. Very popular among foreign visitors are the “production left-overs” of all the top-brand garment factories. More detail places please click 
